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Tips for Printing PETG
• Increase the nozzle temperature as per manufacturer recommendations (usually between 220 and 260 ºC), I will get cracking PETG printing when temperature lower than 240 ºC on my 3d printers.
• Increase the bed temperature as per manufacturer recommendations (usually between 50 and 85 ºC), some platform good for PLA but not for PETG, I will use PC sheet, acrylic plate and glass plate with PVB glue or hairspray on it.
• Decrease fan speeds to somewhere in the range of 20 to 50 %, there are too much different fan,12V or 24V, electric current ,different wind force, you need to do adjust according to your machine .
• Possibility of stringing, keep filament dry is necessary,
• Poor bridging characteristics, even poor infill for some 3d printers and slicers. When you see the extruder move faster on support and infill and slow on shell layer, you need to slow down the speed. Slice with simpliy3d I got a bad infill and support.
PETG is a very tough material with good thermal resistance. Its use is universal but especially suitable for mechanical parts and both indoor and outdoor use. PETG has almost no warping, so printing large objects isn’t a problem. We use PETG to print parts for our printers!
PETG is one of our favorite materials for 3D printing. It’s almost as easy to print as PLA, but it can offer many mechanical properties that PLA prints just cannot achieve. The G in the acronym PETG stands for Glycol which is added during the manufacturing process. Glycol modifies the properties of PET, so that it’s easier to print, less brittle and clearer when printing with semi-transparent variants. PETG has low thermal expansion, so even when printing big objects, and without an enclosure, it rarely lifts from the bed and warps. In addition to that, PETG is ductile. It has a healthy amount of flex which can prevent parts from breaking under pressure.
Unlike PLA or ABS, PETG tends to ooze a bit and may leave strings of plastic on your print. You can fight this with increasing retraction and playing with hotend temperature, but if you use our filament presets in Slic3r or Prusa Control, we already did that for you and the amount of stringing is minimal. If you witness a tiny bit of stringing anyway, you can get rid of it by quickly blasting your finished prints with a heat gun.
If you can handle the oozing and strong adhesion, you’ll be left with a very durable print, that is considerably temperature resistant and usable for both indoor and outdoor use.